1. Garments with Leather Trim

    Fabrics made with leather trim are currently quite popular. Methods used to attach the trim to the shell include hand stitching, sewing, and/or the use of adhesives.

    The serviceability of the garment, as well as the terminology on the care label, will vary considerably. Each item will be treated on an individual basis.

    It is our practice to take the care label into consideration before processing a garment containing leather trim. The construction of the garment may limit its cleanability due to the use of different types of materials. Problems that may occur in any method of cleaning include:

    • Bleeding of the colored, leather trim during cleaning, resulting in self-staining of the lighter-colored materials.
    • Drastic loss of color and/or change in texture.
    • Noticeable color differences between the leather and cloth portions of the same garment that were originally the same color before cleaning.
    • Stiffening, cracking, or peeling of the leather trim.
    • Disappearing, transferring, or redepositing of the surface design.
    • Differential shrinkage between the leather and cloth portions.
    • Cracking, shrinking, or stiffening of the vinyl trim due to a loss of plasticizer in drycleaning.
    • Softening of the adhesives used to attach leather and leather like-trim, resulting in a removal of the trim.

    When determining the process of care for a garment, we always remember that the care label may not be accurate for all component parts of the garment. We will determine how the trims will react to the cleaning process.

    If the dyes are semi-soluble in solvent, color loss can occur. The degree of color loss is a major cause of customer complaint. Unfortunately, this is beyond the control of the cleaner.

    • Before drycleaning, always test for colorfastness. Keep in mind that adjoining areas may be damaged if a fugitive dye is created during testing.
    • Clean alone or with similarly colored items.

    Some trims may look like leather but in fact, imitations. Imitation trims are often made of vinyl, which may contrain a plasticizer that is not resistant to solve, resulting in stiffening, cracking, or shrinking of the trim after drycleaning.

  2. Curtain with Water Marks

    Sometimes after cleaning, unsightly brown or yellow rings or streaks may appear on curtain fabrics.

    The discoloration usually appears as a ring or "water mark" on the exposed folds or near the hem of the curtains. This type of discoloration can also appear in a random pattern on any area of the fabric.

    After a curtain has been hanging for a while, it will accumulate large amount of soot, smoke and other atmospheric impurities. In addition, many curtain fabrics contrain original sizings or finishes that are used to give a drape to the fabric. Any contact with moisture can disturb these impurities or sizings, causing objectionable rings or streaks.
  3. Curtain Yellow Streaks

    At some point in time, objectionable vertical yellow or brown discolorations will appear along the exposed folds of the curtain.

    The staining will appear as streaks, mainly in areas of the fabric that are more exposed to light, atmospheric gases, and soils while hanging. Usually, the original shade can be found in protected areas, such as inside the folds and the header pleats.

    Exposure in use caused the discolorations. Curtain fabric over time exposed to light, smoke, soot as well as atmospheric gases, fumes, and other impurities. The dyes and finishes on the fabric will be stained and degraded by this exposure. Also, many fabrics contain optical dyes or brighteners that slowly oxidize and discolor from normal home exposure conditions.
  4. Drycleaning Causes Dye Transfer

    During the accepted drycleaning process, sometimes darker dyed fabrics, yarns or printed designs will bleed and self-stain lighter areas of the same article.

    In some cases, the entire light color fabric may appear to have some of the color of the bleeding dark dye, thus changing the original shade. In other cases, only local areas of the lighter color fabric have picked up the fugitive dye. This can be at random from contact or uneven saturation during cleaning or only along the edges where the colored panels or yarns meet.

    The dye or pigment used to create the darker-colored fabric, yarn or design print was soluble in drycleaning solvent. When this occurs, there is a good chance that during drycleaning this solvent soluble dye will bleed out and selfstain other areas of the article.

    Since most colors on fabrics and yarns which labelled as drycleanable are colorfast to drycleaning, the drycleaner would have no cause to suspect that any particular fashion would have a problem with colorfastness. There is no way to prevent this type of dye bleeding from occuring in drycleaning.
  5. Shrinkage

    Shrinkage is a reduction or shortening of dimension in length, width, or both. Shrinkage can occur in items made from any fiber content, and can also occur in leather. Shrinkage may result from improper stabilization of the fabric or from improper cleaning procedures.

    Shrinkage in shell fabric can be identified by a puckering of seams, a waviness of the zipper tape in the item, or a fullness of the lining. In fabrics made from animal hair, such as wool, angora, cashmere,etc., shrinkage is identified by a harsh, compact, or pilled appearance.

    Although most dress shirts are difficult to shrink, manufacturer often allow for a two or three percent shrinkage, which usually is not sufficient to cause a consumer complaint. Sometime this shrinkage may be recovered by snapping the collar after finishing, which slightly stretches the collar.

    Complaints about shirt shrinkage can be easily resolved by measuring the collar and sleeve length. Measure the collar from the end of the buttonhole to the center of the button, and measure the sleeve length in straight line from the center of the back of the collar to the end of the cuff.

    Almost all leather and suede will shrink to some degree, especially when cleaned for the first time. Such shrinkage is not due to mishandling, but to a relaxing of the skins as the garment is agitated during leather cleaning.

    After tanning and dyeing, leathers are finished under tension. The degree of stretching during finishing varies according to the finishing process and the standards set by the manufacturer. Some skins are stretched more than others, and overstretched skins can result in excessive shrinkage when they relax during a later cleaning.
  6. Invisible Albumin Stains

    Sometimes brown, rust color or similar dark stains or rings mysteriously appear on a garment after a period of time in home storage or after later cleaning. These particular strains are from contact with protein substances that contain albumin.

    The stains usually are irregularly shaped and drip-like in appearance, but can vary in shape, color, and intensity depending upon the actual staining substance itself, as well as the garment it contacts and the length of time it is on the fabric. In some cases, the stained area shows a thin darker edge where the albuminous protein component "wick out" and coagulates as it oxidizes.

    Albumin is found in many protein-based substances. Protein stains on fabrics can be caused by contact with blood, egg, some glues,milk and all dairy by-products, fish products, and vomit, as well as any other animal (protein) substances or body excretions. In many cases, after a fabric comes into contact with such substances, the moisture dries out and the remaining residue is invisible. Over a period of time this residue will oxidize and become discolored. The heat of drying or finishing after cleaning can accelerate the appearance of protein stains.
  7. Mysterious Holes in Silk

    Sometimes relatively new silk garments show holes or tears from unknown circumstances. In many cases, this damage is caused by local contact with a liquid that contains chemicals which deteriorate silk.

    The damage appears as local loss of fibers or tears on the fabric. In some instances, a visible discoloration in the weakened area can be seen.

    This type of damage is caused by solutions containing chloride salts. Studies show that chloride salts of any type will progressively weaken silk yarns. Chloride salts are found in perspiration and deodorants. Chloride salts also are found in many foods, beverages, skin lotions, and medicines, as well as table salt and salt water. When the solution dries, the moisture evaporates out, but the salt residue remains in the fabric and begins a chemical degradation of the silk. Although the silk is weak and degraded, it may not actually tear until some tension or stress is put on the fabric in later use or during the mechanical action of later cleaning.